Fixing my Zoo Part I

The zoo broke down and had to be towed home today. I am going to write down the steps that I took, and my trouble shooting process to fix the zoo.

  1. The Zoo still has power because I’m able to turn it over with the Key. So I do not suspect the battery or charging system. It sounds like there is no combustion in happening. For combustion to happen you need fuel and ignition. My next step is to test fuel
  2. I have an older carbureted engine so a fuel test is simple. I spray Thrust (Starter Fluid) into the carb and try to start the Zoo. I get nothing when I do this. I should head some combustion (Explosions in the engine) I don’t. This tells me that I have fuel but I have no ignition. My next step is to look for spark
  3. To test for spark I pull the coil wire from the center of the distributor cap and place then end of near some metal that I can see when I crank the car over and look for spark. I see no spark. This means my coil is not firing. We have identified the problem, now we need to find the cause. My next step will be to test the coil with a multimeter
  4. To test the coil, I check resistance on the primary windings and the secondary windings with a multimeter. The following link outlines the process. My coil appears to be out of the recommended OHM for the primary, and the Secondary is way out; it reads infinite.. Maybe it is bad? I think that I will go get a new one and find out.
  5. Coil was bad, and I think that the computer is as well. So I ordered new MSD ignition, and a new Webber carburetor kit. Then I can take off all of the emissions stuff and run without the computer. Might even make it run better in the long run.
  6. The pickup in the Distributor seems to be bad too so I ordered a new Distributor. There is not much left in the rig that is OEM now. I wonder if it will run better when I finally get it all back together and working again.

Here are the before and after shots of the Carburetor installation starting with the before

Here is the After shot

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